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Mount Everest, crowning glory of the Himalayas.
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A magical land of contrasts

ICE plumes rise like smoke from the tip of Mount Everest as we circle in our plane; chimney stacks on the roof of the world. Below is Nepal. A mosaic, a melting pot, a mystery.

Where the magnificence of the Himalayas emerging from the evening mists can leave you speechless, the choking city dust and grime that come with being one of the world's poorest countries can, too. Where tigers roam, serene and protected, through the forests of Chitwan, yet semi-naked, unaccompanied children squat to pick through rubbish on the streets of Kathmandu. Where dozens of races speaking up to 100 different languages can coexist without rancour, yet in centuries of bloody history power has been seized time and again at the point of a sword or gun.

Monarchists, Marxists and everything in between; all that is highest and lowest about man, in a country of 23m people, squashed and sometimes forgotten between the emerging super-powers of India and China. Kathmandu is the capital and heart of Nepal. A city of 750,000 people, it remains as colourful, loud and vibrant as when thousands of Westerners flocked here on the hippy trail. The wafts of incense can still be caught on Freak Street, and backpackers still spill out in their thousands from the cheap hotels in the market district of Thamel.

Tightly-packed

Here there are many cafes, bars and shops, battling for space on the tightly-packed streets. Time seems irrelevant as you while away hours, bartering for brightly-coloured pashminas and ringing Buddhist prayer bells, or eating buffalo-meat dumplings and sipping beer in a traditional Nepalese restaurant.

Outside, rickshaws, mopeds and cars zip about the narrow streets at ridiculous speeds, drivers shouting and beeping but never slowing down.

The city is a full-on assault on the senses, and the best way is to pick a base close enough to the action to feel involved, but secluded enough to allow a good night's sleep. The luxurious Malla hotel, on the north-eastern edge of Thamel, offers the best of both worlds - as well as fabulous local cuisine. Nepalese curries tend to be lighter and more delicate than their southern counterparts, and all the better for that.

A few minutes walk from the market lies Durbar Square, an architectural treasure-trove where the buildings and monuments date back to the 12th century. The steps around the three-tier temple, known as the Maju Deval, are still a main meeting point; from here you can take in the vast array of styles and adjust to the pace of life in the city.

It is all too easy to miss some of the hidden gems, like the discreet three-storey brick house known as the Kumari Bahal. This building, with incredibly ornate carvings and windows, houses the Kumari Devi, or "living goddess".

Young girl

The Kumari is a young girl who is chosen through a series of gruesome tests, and reverts back to "human" status on reaching puberty. Her feet are not allowed to touch the ground outside the Bahal - although she occasionally comes to the window above the courtyard to inspect her visitors.

Nepal is a predominantly Hindu country, but with a large Buddhist minority. The religious buildings of each are scattered across the city and the surrounding valley. The chief Buddhist site is the Boudhanath temple, around four kilometres east of Kathmandu central and believed to have been built in the fifth century. Red-robed monks mill around, while passers-by stop to spin the prayer wheels and pause for reflection. It is a place of perfect calm.

Like all Buddhist temples, Boudhanath has a dome-shaped white roof and a central tower adorned with a pair of eyes on each side - the Buddha keeping eternal watch over the country of his birth. To the west of the city, on top of a hill, is the other great Buddhist temple, Swayambhunath. Visible for miles around, it is known locally as the "monkey temple" because of a large troop of monkeys whose antics keep visitors entertained.

Pashupathinath, the most important Hindu place of worship, lies to the north of Kathmandu. "Pashupathi", the lord of beasts, is an incarnation of Shiva - one of the three most important of the bewildering number of Hindu gods. Non-Hindus cannot enter the central temple, but everyone can wander around the extensive grounds and sit or stand on the bank of the Bagmati river.

Two words of warning. The six cremation ghats are in almost constant use; and the many yogi who flock to the site will demand money for photos after you've taken their picture, when too much is never enough. They may be wise, but their "bartering" skills are very much of this world.

Contrasts

Nepal is a country of contrasts, and the Royal Chitwan National Park could hardly be more different. A verdant nature reserve of nearly 1,000 sq km, the park has dense forestry, beautiful still water marshes and an impressive range of wildlife including rhino, elephants and marsh muggers - a 4ft relative of the salt water crocodile. The only noise to interrupt sleep here comes from the animals.

Chief among the beasts is the Bengal tiger. The species remains both rare and elusive, but their numbers are on the increase, and nearly 100 are thought to roam the park.

We stayed at the Tiger Tops jungle lodge, in the heart of the forest, and we tracked the tigers on elephants. These huge beasts prove remarkably obedient and manoeuvrable in the hands (or rather feet) of their "drivers".

Few things can be more exhilarating - or bizarre - than charging through the bushes on elephant-back after another patrol has sent up a holler that means a tiger has been spotted. A more sedate option is to stay just outside the park, at the Tiger Mountain Tharu Safari Lodge. This beautiful mini-resort, with its manicured grounds and ox-drawn taxis, is built in the style of the houses of the local Tharu tribe.

Guest can take a stroll to a nearby Tharu village and watch the sun go down over the rolling yellow mustard fields. The more adventurous can enter the fringes of the forest on a jungle walk. The thought of encountering a tiger without an elephant as protection is a little unsettling, if thrilling. A more immediate danger comes from the thousands of leeches that line the paths. Wear stout shoes, tuck your trousers into your socks and enjoy the sights and sounds of nature at its most raw.

Extreme adventure

While the jungle provides one sort of extreme adventure, the Himalayas provide another. Pokhara, a tourist city in the foothills of the mountains, is the usual stop-off point for dedicated trekkers. It is built around a huge lake, the Phewa Tal; on clear days, Mount Machhapuchhare can be seen reflected in its waters. The lakeside, which has an almost European feel, is littered with internet cafes, restaurants and shops. Bring plenty of money and remember that virtually all prices are negotiable.

Just above the town lies the Tiger Mountain Pokhara Lodge, with luxury private bungalows and dramatic views of both the valley below and the mountains. As evening sets in, the Himalayas emerge ghost-like from the afternoon mists, their white peaks appearing to hover above the ground. No words can do justice to the effect.

Those wanting to get an even closer view can take a flight round the mountains. The Himalayas are not all about Everest; you soon realise it is only slightly taller than its neighbours. Nonetheless, to have an unimpeded view of the world's highest mountain, set against a perfect blue sky, is a humbling experience, and as close to heaven as some of us will ever be.

Nepal is far from "perfect". Those choosing to drive rather than fly from Kathmandu to Pokhara will soon realise two things. First, the infrastructure is terrible, and the roads so bad that a journey of just 150km can take seven uncomfortable hours. Second, poverty here is neither relative nor abstract. It is absolute, and written into the faces of the beggars and street urchins in the outskirts of Kathmandu and the villages beyond.

The current political situation remains uncertain in the long term. An armed uprising by the Marxists left more than 12,000 people dead, but their recent success in national elections - and the king's decision to cede power - could finally bring stability. It is a momentous change. The monarchy has been the mainstay of Nepali political life since the 18th century.

What will happen next? No one can be quite sure. Nepal - magnificent, disquieting, beautiful, blighted - is above all unpredictable. Just like all the important things in life.

DAVID travelled to Nepal with Saga Holidays. A 12 nights stay (includes two nights aboard aircraft) costs from £1,699, based on April 23, 2009 departure, flying from Heathrow to Kathmandu via Bahrain with the scheduled services of Gulf Air. Price includes: UK travel service, which includes either door to door chauffeur car service between home and the international airport or airport parking, UK domestic flights or coach travel to international airport; a selection of excursions and activities; accommodation and all breakfasts, six lunches and eight dinners; insurance and cancellation cover; return scheduled flights, airport taxes, fees and charges. Highlights include: Elephant-back treks through the jungle, the chance to glimpse the rare Royal Bengal Tiger, views of the snow-capped Himalayas and trips to exotic bazaars. Contact: Saga Holidays on 0800 056 5880 or visit saga.co.uk/travelshop . Saga holidays are exclusively for people aged 50 and over. A travelling companion may be aged 40 or over.

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